Five Months in the Himalaya: Ladakh & Kashmir

One of the most important of the early mountain exploration books that relate to the Himalaya. It has accounts of some of the very first serious Himalayan mountaineering: Longstaff's snooping around the Garhwal-Kumaon Himalaya looking for a way to Nanda Devi; close views of Changabang and Dunagari for the first time ever; ascent of "middle peak" of Haramuk; and the first ascent of Trisul, which was the first peak above 7000m ever ascended. Another interesting tidbit about this expedition is that it was supposed to be an Everest reconnaissance, but was denied permission at the last moment. They were told to try Kangchenjunga instead, but since Guillarmod was already there (it's not clear if Longstaff and Mumm knew that at the time) and Freshfield had previously explored it, Longstaff & Mumm switched to the north seeking new and unexplored terrain.